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The image below is of a pretty beaten up coin that is actually a French 10 Centimes bronze coin from 1855. The unidentifiable imprint on it is an eagle with his head turned to the right while it clutches a quiver of arrows. The inscription, Empire Francais Dix Centimes that is embossed around the circumference translates as, French Empire Ten Cents.
Based on the condition as seen here, the value of this 145-year-old coin is about a buck.
The value of this coin, however, is based on which side you look at. Flip it over and its value shoots up 10,000% because stamped into the face of this coin is; Mitchell, Saw Maker, Brighton.
So what was ol Henry up to defacing Emperor Napoleon the IIIs coins?
He was creating a coupon.
While throughout history, men have been putting one stamp or another in coins, during the latter half of the 19th century, this practice became a very common practice in commerce.
While the basis of offset printing was invented by Gutenberg way back in 1452, it was an extremely labour-intensive process, as was the paper that was printed. These two facts conspired to cause printing for basic advertising to be beyond the financial grasp of the average shop owner. While the Linotype machine was invented in 1886, it did not come into widespread use until the beginning of the 20th century.
The Linotype machine was a pretty fascinating piece of work, for those of you that are interested in machinery. Using a keyboard, the Compositor would punch in the text. The machine would then use that information to assemble a line of text using molds of each letter, called matrices, setting them side by side as needed. The machine would then cast that mold into a slug, which was one line of set text. It then assembled the slugs in the galley, assembling them in the required order so as to define the story. When the printing was completed, the slugs were melted down and the material used again for the next run.
Added to this labour saver was the cost cutting in the manufacturing of paper, switching from the standard practice of using linen fiber to using wood pulp.
So all of this helped reduce the cost of printing at the beginning of the 20th century, but that didnt help poor ol Henry back in about 1870. In his shop on North Street in Brighton, he was producing everything from ultimate braces to saws, but remember, this was the latter half of the 19th century. One of his complex molding planes with a single blade would sell for less than 75 cents. To bring up his volume so he could purchase stock at better prices, Henry had to advertise.
Like many small businesses at the time, Henry turned to Counterstamping coins. Because it was against the law to deface the British currency, Henry brought in hundreds of 10centimes coins from France and beat the hell out of those. He then handed them out as change to put them back into circulation in the hopes that they would find their way to someone in need of a joining tool. When the coins were presented to Henry back at the shop, he would give the bearer credit for the value of the coin, worth about 3 British pennies. By todays standards, given the price of hand-made wood planes, that would equal a $30 to $45 discount, not a value to sneeze at.
I purchased this coin from Rich Hartzog who operates World Exonumia, a dealer in historical coins, medals and tokens. It is purported to have once been a part of Dr. Gregory G. Brunks collection, Dr. Bunk being a noted authority on counterstamped coins. Mr. Hartzog has published some of Dr. Brunks books on counterstamped coins and is currently assembling the second update of Brunks title, Merchant and Privately Countermarked Coins. From the research I have done, I do not believe there are too many of ol Henrys French francs left.
While there is the acceptance that this coin has two values; one as a French 10centimes coin and the other as a Merchants form of advertising, I am hoping there is a third value to it now. Adding it to my small but growing collection of H.E. Mitchell planes and I am hoping it might have just increased the value of the whole lot by more than the value of the coin. That was the rational behind its purchase, but only time will tell if it is a workable one.
Profitable or not, I have spent a number of enjoyable hours this week researching the history of these coins and in doing so, I learned a bit more about ol Henry Mitchell. He was obviously a bit of a hustler.
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well, were coming down the home stretch on this one ... its walnut, and sam is nearly finished welding and polishing the steel base ...click the photos to enlarge them ..
all done 1/15 ... off to long island
heres the story ..
we started with the clients very detailed drawing with measurements that she kindly sent to start the dialog ... most folks are not this organized.
after putting it into my cad program, we made a few changes to get things under budgetary control and ended up with the elevation below. the piece will have a stone top and a steel base,
here it is, early on,with the box defined, the runners in and the face frame on.
here, the drawers and doors are fitted up ... the client did not like our choice of crotch walnut veneer and so, will made a new pair of doors with calmer grain ... no problem. thats why we send photos ...
its in the finish process now. the base is complete, and well put it all together next week.
there will be a wine rack in the center drawer, and room for other bar bottles stored vertically in a pull out drawer behind the center doors.
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We shipped out the two big tables Friday afternoon, which called for a round of rum for my men and a little banjo music by Will. He was showing off his new (to him, but older than him, 1981) Stelling banjo ... It sounded really sweet .... summer afternoons ... is there anything better? Kit stopped by on her way home from work ... Well post a little audio clip one of these days ...
On Mondays post I shared a few photos and why this desk wasnt a weekend project and how it could be. Today Ill talk about how we built it. Again, a big thank you to David for doing most of it, I was more of an assistant on this project!
First, we calculated the amount of wood we needed and off we went to Home Depot to pick up our supplies:
1x12 Poplar (about 10)
1x2 Poplar (about 48 - we made a second trip for more wood, so I think this is about right :)
For those not familiar with American terminology for wood, for some reason a 1x12 isnt actually 1" tall x 12" wide it is really 3/4" tall x 11 1/4" wide. Same applies for other sizes too, like a 1x2 is really 3/4" x 1 1/2". I know, weird. Just wanted to go over that upfront since I talk about measurements below :)
Anyways, total for the wood was around $100
We also needed:
Brass Screws
Wood Glue
Then the two 1x12s were cut and glued together and held with a clamp. Once dry, 5 supports were cut out of 1x2 poplar, the same width as the top and attached to the bottom of the desk with glue and screws and clamped to dry (The last support should be snug against the leg so make sure to account for that- see photos towards end of post). Then 1x2s were cut at a 45 to make the outer frame, glued and then clamped in place to dry. If you have any gaps use a small amount of wood filler to fill them.
After everything had dried, all the edges and where the wood meets was sanded with the orbital sander (120 and then 220 grit)
Next, we calculated the angle of the X legs. On the table, we started at the edge of the 1x12 (not the very end at the trim) and measured 29.25" for a 30" standard desk height accounting for the .75 top too. We laid two 1x2s on top of each other in an x on the desk top. Lining the top board with the outside of the trim and the bottom with the inside of the trim. We marked with a pencil where the boards intersect in the middle and a straight line at the top and bottom.
Next we cut the angles (which were just marked) for the top and bottom for eight boards (4 for each x-leg). We then cut the center sections (drawn where the legs cross making the X) on four of the boards.
If you use a wood like poplar with a lot of variety in color and grain, you will want to spend some time to match similar boards for each leg.
Last, we cut a 1.5 inch section out of the inner rear leg to later attach the center brace.
Now to assemble the legs! We applied wood glue to all of the pieces, clamped them together and screwed them from the inside. We assembled the four pieces as shown below and then sanded them to make sure the connections were seamless.
After sanding, we applied glue and screwed the individual legs together creating the X.
Once the X sides were complete, we applied glue to the corners and sides and set them in place.
For extra support, we added wood angles to lock the legs in place. David cut a few angles to find the perfect fit and then cut the angle so it would sit flush with the trim. it was glued and clamped in place.
After the legs were set, the center brace (going between the X sides) was glued into place. The center brace was constructed of two 1x2s cut to the width of the table minus three inches (for the trim and outer board of the x-leg)
And that was it! You can see that we used a combination of wood glue and hidden (or less noticeable screws) for the construction. As long as the wood glue dries thoroughly and is clamped to dry, it is very strong! For areas that have more stress, like the legs and table top center supports, we also used screws in addition to the wood glue. Ill take more photos once we have the office complete, but since I took the photos, I also have my large Mac desktop on top and it is very solid.
I love the grain of the poplar! It probably isnt for everyone, in fact as I was looking at hardwoods online, I saw some references to it as the ugly hardwood. The nerve! Im thinking they were referencing the extreme difference in grains ... so it does take more time to pick out ones that are similar.
The desktop looks like one piece of wood because we chose wood where the grain would match, also sanding it until it was smooth helped even out the line.
I think the legs look pretty seamless too ...
If we were building this again, I probably would use oak due to it taking less time in sanding, see Mondays post for my full explanation of why wasnt a weekend project and how to turn it into one!
The total cost was around $100 for wood and about $10 more for screws and wood glue if not already owned. So about $100 cheaper than the World Market equivalent
Im off to get supplies and work on my next project ... follow me on instagram @sarahmdorseydesigns for sneak peaks!
I was struggling to bring together a pun involving the fact that the package that arrived today contained a massive #7 Stanley plane and that Boeing 7*7 series airliners are massive planes. Anyone have any suggestions?
Well, Ill get right down to it. I did a rough tune-up on the plane to get it in working order and am happy to say it seems to be properly functioning now. Heres the glamor shot:
For those not in the know, the #7 is a jointer plane made for flattening surfaces. The length of the sole provides a large reference surface off of which the iron tracks. If you want to find some real nut-cases out there, search around the internet for vintage plane enthusiasts. In the parlance of that particular group, this specimen is what is known as a "user." In other words, its in decent shape but not exactly pretty. Thats fine with me; I cant afford to buy stuff for show. It certainly is manly, isnt it? This picture showing how the plane iron and chipbreaker came reminds me of an anecdote:
Note how the bevel--if you could call it that--is oriented up, towards the chipbreaker.
I forget the context of the story, but a man is visiting California for the first time and has been just dying to try out surfing for the first time. On the last day of his trip he runs out to a surf shop, buys a wetsuit and board, throws them in his car and drives down the beach. To his dismay he see signs up informing him that there are rough conditions present and only advanced surfers should be out there. Im not going to let that stop me he thinks, Ive come too far and spent all this money and there is no way Im not going to try surfing. So he gets suited up and is carrying his board across the beach when suddenly, from 200 yards down the beach, the lifeguard blows his whistle, points directly at the man and yells, "Hey! You! No beginners!" The man walks over to the lifeguard and asks, "How in the world did you know that I was a beginner?...I didnt even get in the water." The lifeguard: "Your wetsuit is on backwards."
There are just certain things that so glaringly obvious to those in the know that they can be seen from 200 yards away.
Bench planes have the iron bevel-down (yes yes, I know there are exceptions.) No wonder the seller was ready to get rid of it, it probably didnt work so hot this way. Anyway, I noticed this before I even got it out of the bubble wrap.
Other issues:
The knob is chipped. No big deal.
The tote is chipped and cracked...
...but the crack is repaired now. I can live with it.
This is about 10 seconds worth of lapping the sole. Yeah...there was a little oxidation. My mouth still tastes like pennies; I should probably pick up some dust masks from work on Friday. All told I spent about 30 minutes and maybe seven yards of PSA-backed sandpaper flattening the sole and sides.
The blade also needed a fair amount of work but its shaving-sharp now and the whole rigs works really well.
In other news, I routed the rabbets on the underside of the tabletop today. These will provide a reference for the tool tray. Heres a picture of the underside of the assembly:
For the record, I have experienced no diminishing returns in owning two Workmates. In fact, I would say that owning two is more than twice as useful as owning one. Three is probably overkill, although there have been times...
I think that will do it for today. Scary stuff starts happening tomorrow when I start the process of pulling it all together. Mistakes will be made, of that I am sure.
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